Destination Buenos Aires
Cycling out the hills didn’t seem too bad and when I reached ruta 101 I was in for my first surprise.
"Asphalto ruto 101 - ALL the roads are asphalto". (This is ruta 101).
I should have trusted my own instincts. There was a police post there and naturally I was stopped because they had nothing better to do. I think they thought I was crazy. A short distance up the road I met a guy working and he did his best to dissuade me from proceeding, say that the road was too muddy, there was snakes in the jungle, no house for 38 kms etc blah blah. I did not take his advice and headed on into the jungle. I cycled through some bad patches where I nearly came off but overall it wasn’t too bad. It looked lethal been smooth and wet in some places, but the mud was a thick clay and very sticky, so the bike held reasonably well. Unfortunately I went through a 10 metre stetch of really squelchy muck and it made a mess of everything.
Muck on bike
Honestly, you just can’t believe how sticky and messy this clay is. There were quite a few butterflies about and like two days ago, they were many different colours. I wonder what it is like in summer for butterflies? It must be fantastic! I didn’t stop until 1330 only because I thought it would be wise to eat something. I didn’t hang around for too long as there were a lot of little flies annoying me and I didn’t want to get too many bites.
I continued and eventually the road widened and I was out of the jungle, so much for that workman’s advice!! I was about 3km from the asphalt road when I came up behind a man carrying a machete. I thought I’d give him a wide berth and just as I was passing *BANG*!! My rear tire exploded. Luckily the man didn’t think I was shooting at him and try to lop my head off. Unfortunately for me, I had a big hole in the tire and tube. I decided to use my spare tyre, another item I had been cursing for bringing, now vindicated. While I was fixing everything, I was joined by a boy from the house I had stopped beside. His name is Matias and he kept me company for the 35 minutes it took me to sort it all out. As I left I gave him 5 pesos which really made his day. It was worth it just to see the look on his face!
I eventually got on to the asphalt road around 1600, so I started looking to see if there was anywhere to camp. I couldn’t find anything suitable, but then a campertruck pulled up. They were too old Germans who temselves had travelled extensively by bike in Europe and they were interested in saying hello to me. They said they were heading for a place 5kms up the road and perhaps I should stop there too. Well I hadn’t seen anywhere to stop for the night before this, so I thought that it would make sense to head for there.
Loaded pickup
Typical farmhouse
After some hilly bits and then a steep climb I eventually reached it, Agroturismo San Sebastian De La Selva. It is set in beautiful surroundings and the owners are very friendly. I settled on a room for 50 pesos as I didn’t feel like camping and also asked for a meal, I had a headache all day and camping seemed too much trouble.
Well, it was great to have ashower but when I got back to the room a migraine (visual disturbance) struck and I had to lie down for a while. There was a knock on the door and I had to let the owner in amidst much fussing, I was using a bed with sheets which were not clean!
They got my dinner for me at my requested time of 1900 which is very, very early for Argentina, but I wanted to get to bed sooner rather than later. It was a good wholesome meal of rice, chicken, pork, sausage, potato, swede, salad and bread. They then joined me and chatted for a while, but I couldn’t understand a lot of what they were talking about.
I went to bed at 2000. Today I had ascended 1275m and descended 1085m.
June 11th Friday
Awoke at 0400 and used the toilets adjacent to my room. I was doing my business when a bat flew into my back and out into the passageway. It hung there for a while so I tried to get a decent picture. When I got close the camera wouldn’t focus which was annoying. He bared his fangs then went back into the toilet so I left him alone.
Bat in the toilet!
I was up and ready for breakfast at 0730. Unfortunately I didn’t feel too well, I guess connected to my migraine yesterday. I said goodbye to the folks and headed off feeling not too healthy.
Goodbye Agroturismo San Sebastian De La Selva
It was a horrible start, I climbed for over ½ hour, I thought I had finished with that kind of thing. It was a slog with me feeling not too great so I wasn’t enjoying the ride in any way. The people here are not as friendly as I‘ve encountered before, For the first time on my ride I had my first unpleasant experience on the road. I was deliberately pelted with an orange from a lorry coming the other way. I guess you get assholes everywhere. However, I was beginning to give a “thumbs down” to Missiones.
I passed another landmark – 4000km but I didn´t feel like celebrating as I still felt unwell. Appropriately for today, the landmark was just in front of a road sign depicting a footballer!
I´ve cycled 4000km in Argentina
View at 4000km- note the football sign, appropriate for World cup day!
I slogged up and down hills and didn’t stop until 1145, three hours after setting off. I had found the shade of a tree, about 20 metres from the road. As I was eating, a man on his cart, pulled by two oxen trundle by. There was a polite exchange, but no banter as I have been used to. There is a lot of poverty around here, some houses been no more than shacks. Our garden shed back home is better then some of them.
I continued feeling slightly refreshed but still unwell. I ran out of steam coming into San Bernardo de Irigoyen. I was expecting it to be a small place so I found the first kiosco and stocked up on liquid and chocolate etc. However it was bigger than expected so I booked into the ACA hosteria. It was a wise move as I was pretty wrecked by this stage. I rested for a couple of hours, watching Uruguay draw with France, you can guess who I was cheering for ! I then sorted out the tyre on my bicycle. In my haste yesterday with the puncture, I put the tyre on the wrong way around. Afterwards I checked out the town and all I can say is I didn’t like it. The only thing was a nice sunset.
Sunset over San Bernardo de irogoyen
I ate in the motel café and it was very basic, I had a tough milenesa and some chips. I went off to bed feeling absolutely shattered, I don’t know whether its related to the anti-malarial or just another “migraine storm” I’m going through. Either way, its not right, I shouldn’t feel this way. I went to bed hoping I would be alright in the morning.
June 12 Saturday.
I woke up quite a few times. People talking loudly etc at 0300 and 0500. I was still feeling really wrecked so I made the decision to stay another day. When I got up at 0730 I was still feeling unwell. I had breakfast, booked another night and left my laundry at the lavanderia. I went out and found an internet café so I updated my draft blog and caught up on emails. It was nearly 1100 when I finished. All the firecrackers were going off for Argentina’s game with Nigeria. They make a lot of noise here!
- Sign for ACA motel I´m staying in
Another crappy day in San Bernardo de Irigoyen, another lovely sunset
Being unwell it was a day of hanging around on the bed. In the evening I had burger and chips in the motel café. I went to bed feeling a little bit bit and daring to hope that I could move on tomorrow.
June 13th Sunday
I awoke feeling no better or worse and I still have no energy. SB de Irigoyen is an awful place to get stuck in, there is absolutely nothing here.It also an expensive place I’m staying in but the room is depressing. I’ve exhausted the options of wandering about town. The signpost says it all, reflecting the town’s character.
The sign reflects the town - a kip
I had a snooze for a ½ hour in the afternoon and felt worse afterwards. I’m now getting worried that I may have to stay another day, really frustrating as I thought I would be better today and was hoping that it would be a rest day.
This is the pits!! I’m trying to stay upbeat but it’s not succeeding, if I don’t move tomorrow I will have to think about maybe getting a bus somewhere as I will be cutting it close to get to Buenos Aires in time. If I make that decision, I’ll get a bus sooner rather than later as I’ll probably get to do more touristy things in BA than I will cycling down plus I can catch up with some amigos.
June 14th Monday
The day started well enough and I covered 26 kms with relative ease, but then I started hitting the real ups & downs. I was climbing up one hill when a van stopped and offered a lift. I said no, but when he pulled away I was wondering if I had done the right thing as I was tiring. Normally, I would not be half as tired as that so I was definitely still not well. About half way through I went right down into a valley, which meant I had a bugger to climb back up, it took probably about 40 minutes and it wore me out. There was lot’s of climbing after that. The German’s from a few day’s passed by and offered me a lift but I refused, stupidly.
I got to San Pedro and I couldn’t find a hotel (that was open). I had been spoiled in the Andes because there was always an oficina de turismo from where I could work things out. Here, there is no tourism and it’s pretty hard trying to understand the local’s directions.There seem’s to be a mix of potuguese in there at times, maybe there is seeing as we’re right beside Brasil. The town was hilly and I got fed up so I headed down the road to the Agrotourism Santa Maria
I got there at about 1615 completely exhausted. I got the tent up and the food on.
Camping at Agroturismo Santa Maria
There was no water in the toilets and I didn’t see anybody about. I was getting into bed at 1800 when a women came by. It was seven peso’s to camp and I only had 3.5 pesos, so that had to do. In any case the facilities weren’t up to scratch, I guess it’s off-season. So, I settled down just after 1800 feeling worn out and fed up with the way things are going over the last week. I’m seriously thinking about getting a bus to Buenos Aires.
Burning out
I burned 5508 calories Ascent 1445m Descent 1730m
June 15th Tuesday
I felt awful this morning, absolutely drained and tired. I got moving at 0810 and I very slowly managed To get some rhythm going, though I felt detached. I felt like I could get sick, thought to be honest I think that was due to all the sweet things I’m eating. It was sheer hell just to keep moving.
Burned out. Hadn't the energy to retake the photo, hence this lousy one
I was drinking a lot of liquid so I when I saw a rare kiosko on the side of the road I stopped replenished the liquid and got some bread and fiambre. That was a good move as further down the road I made a fiambre sandwich and it settled my stomach a bit. The going would have been very easy if I was well. I was maintaining about 625 m and was making good progress.
My spirits lifted when I saw signs for hotels as I got near San Vicente. I got into town before 1300 and after asking around found a hotel. I just took the first one. I showered and made up three fiambre sandwiches. I still felt hungry so I went out to a café and ordered three empanadas and a plate of chips. However, I began to feel sick and I couldn’t finish my chips. I felt shakey, detached and pukey but tried to ignore it all and went off to find a lavaderia. I found it but it was shut so I went back to the hotel room and watched Brasil v Korea.
In the evening I ended up having a pizza
June 16th Wednesday
Nothing to report. I didn’t feel great in the morning. The morning was overcast and we had a storm at one stage, I went to an internet café to catch up on things,I decided to have lunch in the hotel, It turned out to be very good and I had plenty to eat, various chargrilled meats and salad. It was just what I needed. Afterwards I had a snooze for a few hours.
June 17th Thursday
I made the decision to go straight to Buenos Aires. The day was spent walking all over the town for items to pack the bike with. I managed to scrounge some cardboard boxes and I located a papeleria so I had my packing tape and cling-wrap, but there was no bubblewrap or trolley to be found anywhere. I decided to buy a suitcase and paid 240 pesos (about £35 – £40), a real rip-off for a lousy quality one, but it was the biggest I could find.
It took me over two hours to dismantle and pack the bike and I was covered in sweat by the end as it was quite a physical task and it was a warm humid day. Very uncomfortable!
Poor old bike - in pieces
Neatly packed!
The suitcase turned out to be just big enough for all my gear. I didn’t bother going out for something to eat as I was still very tired, instead, I made sandwiches with the bread that was supposed to be for tomorrow.
June 18th Friday.
“Well, I’ve just got on the bus! Its 1610. The bloody suitcase is broken and it wasn’t broken when I left it in baggage room, so it hasn’t even lasted one journey. I needed it for retiro, now I’ll have to try and get a porter. This time I didn’t have to pay a dime to get the bicycle and suitcase on the bus. The bicycle was easier to manage!!”
A strange day,I woke up a lot last night. There was tremendous thunder, lightning and rain. I eventually moved at 0700. I nipped out to get bread for sandwiches at 0830. I was toally ready by around 0900. I killed an hour until 1000 then tried to wheel the suitcases out. The women saw me and asked if I needed a taxi. I decided it would be wise.
I got to the station and was able to leave the luggage there so I killed time by going back into town and getting on the internet. I ate my lunch sitting what is a kind of Plaza. Afterwards I was taking pictures of ants carting away my breadcrumbs when I was interrupted by a women trying to sell something. I eventually had to part with my change to make her go away.
I got so bored sitting there that I went back to the station for a change of scenery. A lot of boring time was spent there but I was looking forward to seeing some of the countryside.
When the bus arrived I fetched my suticase and found that it has managed to break somehow since this morning, the pull up handle you use to tow it along was completely broken, Someone must have broken it in the left luggage. I had to pick it up by hand, and in doing so the sidehandle broke off. I was left with one handle intact. This suitcase was in self-destruct mode and I hadn’t even made it to the bus!
The guys loading it could hardly lift it into the bus, and whilst doing so, the extension bar caught on a lip and there was more scrunching noise as the suitcase was still in self destruct mode and was determined to make me suffer. I boarded the bus fearful that the contents of the case would not be intact by the time we reached Buenos Aires! Its making me laugh as I write this, I’ve never bought something so pathetic and useless for its purpose!!
As we travelled, the countryside was much the same all the way into darkness which descended two hours later. We seemed to get stopped by the police a lot. I can’t understand it, so many police checks and for what? They would be better off getting rid of some of the deathtrap cars that are on the road. So – the bus journey turned out to be boring as well. The films were no good either. The first was in a foreign language subtitled in Spanish, so I couldn’t follow that. The second was obviously a pirate copy, Awful picture and sound quality and out of sync by about three seconds, unwatchable!! I did manage to sleep, waking up quite a few times but always falling back into slumber eventually.
Saturday 19th July.
“I’m eating breakfast in the Hostel Inn I San Telmo, its 0900. I already had breakfast on the bus at 0700 but I might as well take advantage and save money! I need to after the journey. 31 pesos on tips and 40 pesos on the taxi but at least I’ve got a cheap place to stay in BA. 35 pesos a night, 38 pesos at weekends. That’s absolutely nothing compared to a hotel”
“Well, I’m sitting in a café, sipping a heinekin and browsing the internet. I’ve ordered three empanadas and a Spanish tart (of the edible kind). I’ve just been around San Telmo, down to the antiques section and its quite interesting. This is a totally different experience to when I was here before. Then I was preoccupied with one thing – getting to Bariloche. Now, I have time to relax and explore properly”
After the café I decided to walk over to the Shamrock bar, not realizing it was a ¾ hour walk. I finally got there after wading through hundred’s of “Goths” (obviously a weekend gathering place, plenty of shops selling goth paraphernalia) and it was closed!! A Irish bar – closed!!??
Some of the architecture in BA
I went into a café on the way back as I fancied a coffee seing as I haven’t had one in months. I waited and waited and when I got a waiters attention he just nodded, did nothing, then a minute later went to someone else, so I just got up and left. I found another place and I was attended to immediately – big difference!
Some more architecture in BA
I bought some pasta to eat later on the way back but when I got in, I just lay on the bed. So I turned in at 2000 without eating as I felt pretty tired.
July 20th Sunday
I arose at 0800, ate breakfast whilst booking my Hostel and checking the sights in Toronto on the internet. I decided to walk over to Recoleta cemetery. On the way (well the opposite way) I checked out the antiques fair at Dorrega plaza which is just down the road. Quite a few stalls were not set up so I decided to check it again on the way back, as there would also be more hustelle and bustle to add to the atmosphere.
It’s a long walk to Recoleta, at least 40 minutes. On the way over I felt something wet splash on my neck. A man and a women passing by pointed upwards (indicating bird dropping) and then gave me a tissue, they then tried steering me into a doorway but at the stage the game was up, I realised they were going to do the trick of helping to clean me off – but actually, cleaning my pockets out!. I immediately just said no and walked on, my hand firmlyon my wallet. I was pleased that I had outsmarted the bastards, but angry that they had splashed dirt on my jacket. Walking on was the best though, because the streets were relatively empty and I had no way of knowing whether there was any other accomplices nearby.
Iglesia Nuestra Senora De Belen
Cobbled street just off Plaza Dorrega
Ruined building, would have been beautiful once
Another cobbled street on my "long walk to Recoleta"
If you look up theres always something to see here in BA
I continued on and after what seemed never ending streets, I arrived at the cemetery. It’s an amazing place, all grand mausoleums for the rich and famous. I located Padre Fahy’s monument and also visited Evita Peron’s of course.
Evita - Eva Peron's final resting place
One of the plaques on Eva's Mausoleum
Familia "O Sullivan"
This mausoleum had a dome with a beautiful mosaic (see next picture)
Mosaic of Christ
I ambled around slowly, peering into some of the mausoleums, some with coffins on display (though you are asked to not take photographs of coffins). In all I spent about an hour there and afterwards went to look for a souvenir shop listed in the lonely planet guide, but it was no longer there. Then, I commited a cardinal sin. Bless me father, but I went to Mcdonalds! I just did it because I wanted something quickly and didn’t fancy waiting around. It was the usual crap stuff but it was cheap enough.
I was walking down Peru street, concentrating on trucking right, when casa rosado came up to me
I then headed back down Calle Peru and found the hotel I stayed in three months ago. It was really strange because it felt like years since I had been there. I guess I’ve done a lot since. I headed back to Dorrega plaza and ambled around the stalls.
An attractive stall at the antiquity market
mmmmmmmmm - let's try this one
Life around the plaza
more colourful stalls
lots of painting (tango of course!) adding to the colour, hustle and bustle of the feria
It was fun and I quite enjoyed it, would have been much better if Caroline had been there.
I had only been in BA 24 hours but I’d already done a lot more than when I first came here, really chilling out and relaxing, just soaking in the atmosphere. For the first time since I left work, this actually feels like a holiday!! AsI write, I’m just lazing on the bed and the sun is shining in.Aaaah mellow.
Monday 21st June
Today is a bank holiday here as it was flag day yesterday. I didn’t do much. In the morning I walked up towards the Obelisco then back by Calle Peru. The first Mayor of Buenos Aires wanted for the city a boulevard like Paris so there is a real Parissan influence here, You wouldn’t believe how wide Avenida de mayo is (though I think O’Conell bridge, being wider than it is long has boasting rights over something unique).
Seven lanes in the middle, three on either side
I had a Café con Leche and medialunas which I enjoyed while reading the BA herald, a small paper in English. I watched the end of the Chile v Switzerland game then went back to the hostel. I found a book in English to read, so I spent some time looking at that.
The famous McDonald Restaurant. Speciality - 100% Beef in a sesame seeded bun and Chicken nuggets with a free toy!!!!!!
In the evening I wanted to eat in an Arabian restaurant down the road, but it wasn’t open until 2000, so I just went to a café instead.
Tuesday 22nd June
I had a great morning. On a whim I walked over to Port Madero. It’s very modern, basically an old port that has been modernized.
A bit of street art in San Telmo
It was a complete difference to the last three months riding out in the sticks with the 40 year old picks ups. This feels like the streets are paved with gold!!
Until Squeeeelllllch underfoot. Nice. “Doghit shit on my boot, reminds me of you”.
Whats that I said about looking up all the time?
Tall, TALL and TALLER in Puerto Madero
The famous bridge in Puerto Madero that I don't know the name of!!
I took load of pictures and also went on board Corbeta A.R.A “Uruguay”. I really enjoyed that. It reminded me of my time in Portugal and being on the Cu.
Corbeta A.R.A. Uruguay
Corbeta A.R.A "Uruguay"
Corbeta A.R.A "Uruguay" Rueda de Cabilla de repuesta
Corbeta A.R.A "Uruguay" Camera de Oficiales
Corbeta A.R.A "Uruguay" Camera de Oficiales
AND the star of the show!!!!!>…………………………………………………….
Corbeta A.R.A "Uruguay" a lost soul haunts the ship, only in the mirrors
The lost soul appears as a shadow on the Corbeta A.R.A "Uruguay"
The lost soul looks west.......searching for the the auld country, the most beautiful country in the world
Corbeta A.R.A. "Uruguay" splendid in colour
Corbeta A.R.A. "Uruguay" Haul in the main sheet and double cleat
Corbeta A.R.A. "Uruguay" wood and brass
Corbeta A.R.A. "Uruguay" just a porthole
Corbeta A.R.A. "Uruguay" looks out on a mordern world now.
It was time to drag myself away from the boat but I really enjoyed looking around it. It was even better that I had nobody else but the crew (not the Cu-ol crew, check out blogroll). there for 45 minutes.
Puerto Madero, still coming at ya!
Sorry Brian & Betty, but this beats Gosport - any day
Oh no - I think I'm getting a migraine visual disturbance
Hey Senoritas, fancy a ride on my boat????
OK! its time to leave Puerto Madero
I walked around Puerto Madero all morning and had lunch on the way back – a revuelta of potato, egg ham and peas, together with an orange juice. It all came to a wallet busting 34 pesos inc tip (< £7)!
As I've said, there's always something if you look up in BA
The canine party that reminded me what happens if you look up too much
I lost my privacy whilst writing up the diary, two frogs have just joined me. ribbid RIBbid hand riBbid cheat Ribid Ribbid. . ribbid RIBbid hand riBbid cheat Ribid Ribbid. However, I’m relaxing at the moment. Its nice, sunny and warm outside. I checked out going to Montevideo in Uruguay – 535 pesos (£107) for a quick crossing less for a 3.5 hour trip. I’ll probably go and spend a night over there sometime in the next two weeks, if I have time.
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I’ve been naughty and haven’t updated for quite a while. I’m busy looking for work now!!!
JEOS ar an Cú na Gaoithe Blog and Argentina Adventura 